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Jason is a faithful reader and is full of questions as he and his wife work to put finishing touches on their home.  He’s willing to share his journey with you and as I continue to answer his questions, hopefully I’ll be able to also help others who find themselves with similar dilemmas.  We’ve been corresponding about his dining room and the focus has now come around to the window treatments.  Naked windows sometimes work in more modern homes or if there’s a spectacular view to enjoy.  However, most homes benefit from at least a basic window treatment to soften the window edges, help absorb sound and often bring a little pattern to the space.

What To Do With These Windows?

Jason's dining room windows.

Jason's dining room windows.

Jason is wondering a couple of things:  What’s the best treatment for the windows in this formal dining room?   What colors should they use with the red walls?

Jason, there are a few things to consider with window treatments for this room.  It’s a good sized room and there are lots of hard surfaces – hardwood floors, wood table and chairs, a lovely wood sideboard.  The room is bound to be full of echoes since there aren’t enough soft elements to absorb the sound.  Consequently, I strongly recommend draperies, not just a blinds treatment and definitely not wood blinds or shutters.  The room really needs some softness.  Also some fabric will introduce a little pattern and make the window wall a focal point in the room.

Another shot of Jason's dining room.

Another shot of Jason's dining room.

Window Treatment Ideas

With double windows on a single wall, there are a couple of options.  You can do a double layer of drapes – a sheer under a heavier panel that is either stationary or movable.  This is a good solution if you need some light or privacy control.  You can treat both windows as a single entity and run a drapery rod the full width between the windows and then when the drapes are closed they will meet in the middle of the 2 windows.  When the drapes are open they can either stack all to one side (into the corner would be best) or they can split in the middle and stack next to each window.  Since you have the wall space, I’d suggest having the drapes stack 90% off the window frame, meaning that when they are fully open they wouldn’t cover up any of the window glass but cover the wall space unlike the photo below. 

Readily available in lots of colors and prints, these panels have large grommets that hang on a rod making drapery folds easy. (via Macys.com)

Readily available in lots of colors and prints, these panels have large grommets that hang on a rod making drapery folds easy. (via Macys.com)

To create the most formal look, add a valance.  Many drapery styles have matching/coordinating valances available and they can be tailored (flat and simple with maybe a pleat or two) or they can be swoops, maybe with trim on the edges.   A valance would serve to visually connect the two windows by spanning the combined width of both windows.  The draperies under the valance could follow any of the above options of stationary or functional.

Panels with contrasting banding that serves as a valance. (designer Ann Wisniewski via HGTV)

Panels with contrasting banding that serves as a valance. (designer Ann Wisniewski via HGTV)

A less expensive alternative would be to have stationary panels at each window (like the look above).  That means they wouldn’t be able to open and close but then you don’t need as much fabric because the panels don’t need to meet in the middle of the windows.  The least expensive version of this would be a single panel on the outside edge of each window.  Obviously the next step would be to run a drapery rod the full width of each window plus 10-12″ (so you’d need 2 rods) and put a panel framing each side of the window frames (need 4 panels).

While you likely want a somewhat formal look, that doesn’t mean you’re tied to traditional drapery treatments.  Instead of a standard rod, purchase some vintage door knobs, use some cool drawer pulls or anything will serve as a hook.  Then tie, loop or hook your drapery panel to rings and hang the drapes from the ‘hooks’.

This is drapes I created for a client; you can use any kind of tieback to pull the drapes off the window. (via my portfolio)

This is drapes I created for a client; you can use any kind of tieback to pull the drapes off the window. (via my portfolio)

A treatment that would be a little less formal and use less fabric would be to use a top treatment only like a soft Roman/balloon shade.  I’d suggest taking that to the ceiling and have it gently swoop over the top 1/4 of the window, similar to the photo below.  You could make them functional or not, depending upon your needs.

These soft Romans would introduce just a touch of fabric to the room. (via my old magazine archives)

These soft Romans would introduce just a touch of fabric to the room. (via my old magazine archives)

What Color Drapes to Go With A Red Wall?

Jason, here I would suggest you look for a pattern you like….a large damask would be what’s “in” now but stripes or a floral would work just as well.  You want something that has a little red but not so much that you have to worry about it matching the walls.  You want to give a nod to the red but really use the fabric to accent and complement it as well as introduce your accent colors for the room.  So, looking at the 3 samples below, #1 is a definite no – too much red; #2 would be brighter and work well with the white window frames; #3 is an overscale plaid that introduces multiple colors which all work with the red and give you lots of accessory color options to carry the scheme throughout the room.  In the case of #2 or 3, don’t fret about perfectly matching the red, just don’t choose an orangey red since it appears your antique red has more of a blue undertone.

Too much red and it wouldn't introduce enough variety into the room (via Pier1.com)

Too much red and it wouldn't introduce enough variety into the room (via Pier1.com)

A pattern with a little red but the white would play up the window frames and the brown would reinforce the wood tones. (via Pier1.com)

A pattern with a little red but the white would play up the window frames and the brown would reinforce the wood tones. (via Pier1.com)

Use a multi color option for maximum interest. (via Pier1.com)

Use a multi color option for maximum interest. (via Pier1.com)

Floor to Ceiling Drapes?

Another reader, Sarcie, asked a quick window treatment question too.  Sarcie wrote:  ” I absolutely love your site! I feel like I have come across a treasure I want to share with everyone.  I have a question about window treatments.  I like the look of drapes reaching the ceiling and touching the floor but in my sewing room there is a space of about 2′ from the top of the window to the ceiling.  Is there a rule of thumb about how high I should hang drapes in relation to the window?”

No, Sarcie, there’s no magic rule about the height for hanging draperies.  Windows could have anywhere from 6″ to 6′ from the window frame to the ceiling.  Where the rod goes in that space depends on a few things.  You can take drapes all the way to the ceiling for the most impact and drama.  Place the rod just a few inches from the ceiling so there’s a little visual breathing room.  You can place the rod in the traditional place just above the window frame.  Or, if you want to place the draperies somewhere between the window and the ceiling, try to line it up with another horizontal line in the room so there’s continuity and you eye can follow a straight line around the upper edge of the room instead of jumping around. 

These Pottery Barn drapes are hung a couple feet abaove the window and are very dramatic, taking your eye up, so the ceiling feels higher. (via potterybarn.com)

These Pottery Barn drapes are hung a couple feet above the window and are very dramatic, taking your eye up, so the ceiling feels higher. (via potterybarn.com)

Floor to ceiling drapes will also work for you, Jason.  They are great looking but also serve a couple of functions:  they make a room seem bigger and the ceiling higher and they can disguise awkwardly sized or placed windows.  The drawback to them is that most ready made drapes aren’t long enough.  Sarcie, you mentioned you’d be making yours which is a great option.  Another way to get the custom look is to add contrasting or blending bands of fabric to the top or bottom of the drape to give it the extra length.  This can be an option even if you don’t sew….use any simple iron on fusible web product and with a little careful measuring and ironing, you too can have custom looking draperies.

These drapes illustrate the added band to create extra length so the drapes can hang at the ceiling. (via bhg.com)

These drapes illustrate the added band to create extra length so the drapes can hang at the ceiling. (via bhg.com)

Another banded version can be created with a combination of fabric and trims for that extra length. (via jcpenneys.com; $20-40)

Another banded version can be created with a combination of fabric and trims for that extra length. (via jcpenneys.com; $20-40)

Drapes that split the difference of the space between the frame and ceiling. This works because there are so many windows so there's lots of continuity in that horizontal line. (designer Phyllis Harbinger, HGTV.com)

Drapes that split the difference of the space between the frame and ceiling. This works because there are so many windows so there's lots of continuity in that horizontal line. (designer Phyllis Harbinger, HGTV.com)

One of my pet peeves with window treatments is to have the drapes too short.  They need to reach the floor.  You can puddle them or not, that’s a personal preference, but make sure they don’t stop at the window sill.  You’ll lose all your great benefits of softening the windows and creating a focal point if the drapes are too short.

Hunt for Ideas

Hopefully this has given you a little direction in your hunt for drapery solutions.  Visit a bookstore and spend a little browsing the home decorating section or check out the newest issues of shelter magazines to find more photos that will help you visualize your options.  And stay in touch, we’d love to see photos of your finished projects.  If you want more details or have other questions, just leave us a comment.1-terrie

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1-color dotsIn this ongoing series about color, I’ve spent whole posts on only one color and have given you lots of insight into the basic colors of red, blue, yellow and green.  There’s a whole range of secondary colors that are also beautiful in homes like purple, pink, orange, and teal.  These colors are rarely the main color of a room but used more as accent colors (with the possible exception of pink).  Of course, there are exceptions to prove any rule and I’ll share some examples in the photos below.

fitz neon prism

Color Characteristics

Color, color everywhere!  We are bombarded with color – advertising, store displays, packaging, cars, buildings, clothing, menus and book jackets, and don’t forget Mother Nature.  The colors used in advertising and packaging are selected very carefully with an eye to the subliminal emotional response shoppers will have.  Certain colors have immediate connotations:  pink = girly; red = romantic and passionate; yellow = young and energetic; blue = safe and reliable, etc. 

advertising dots 

I know many designers whose own homes are decorated in neutrals of whites and tans because they need a place to get away from the volume of colors they work with every day.  Not me!  As I look around at the vast range of colors available in every area of home decor, I sometimes have a hard time reining myself in because I want a little of all of it.  I guess I need a couple more homes!

colorful board

(photo sources ROW1: Grace pillow, ZGallerie $50; Coral Blossom pillow by Thomas Paul, CottageAndBungalow.com; Regent wide band dinnerware, CrateAndBarrel.com; Teal rug, BurkeDecor.com $65; Mod orange frames, BurkeDecor.com $47/pr; ROW2: Palm Beach pillow collection, Ankasa.com; Emeline chair, InMod.com $545; Lacquer table, JonathanAdler.com $495; Babi mirror, ConranUSA.com $3400;  ROW3: Zambia aubergine throw, ZGallerie $100; Lithe vase, ZGallerie $15-20; Garden stool, InsideAvenue.com $750; Wallpaper, Anthropologie $195 dbl roll; Paprika vase, CrateAndBarrel.com $25; Print chair, RealSimple.com)

  • ORANGE: adding yellow to red makes shades of orange; it’s like the sunny cousin to red. From pumpkin orange to soft sherbet shades, it’s a color that can be firey like its parent color red or spicy like cinnamon or pastel like coral.  At full intensity it is best used in small doses.
From my photo archives I found this before/after use of orange...at full strength.  It's not for everyone, but it does make a statement.

From my photo archives I found this before/after use of orange...at full strength. It's not for everyone, but it does make a statement.

 

The same room with the addition of a 'little' color.

The same room with the addition of a 'little' color.

 

The tiny touch of orange in the artwork is continued down to the floor for just the right amount of accent color. (via BHG.com)

The tiny touch of orange in the artwork is continued down to the floor for just the right amount of accent color. (via BHG.com)

  • PURPLE:  created by combining blue and red, the color can take on the undertones of either.  When imagining the variety of purples available, consider the garden:  lilac trees heavy with blooms, fields of lavender swaying in the breeze, dainty violets, lovely lisianthus and the many shades of hydrangea; or eggplant, cabbage, the deep purple of grapes or plums all bring to mind the range of purple.  While some of these purples may be too dark for walls, they translate beautifully to upholstered pieces like sofas or accent chairs to anchor a room.
I love these greyed down purple walls and tan furnishings. Not too bright, not too light, but just right. (via MariaKillam.com, Color & Design)

I love these greyed down purple walls and tan furnishings. Not too bright, not too light, but just right. (via MariaKillam.com, Color & Design)

  • TEAL:  a cool color, it’s a vivid blue/green that evokes the tropics.  In the 80’s teal was strongly identified with Florida home design.  Now it’s making a comeback (Pantone has identified it as THE color for 2010) in less vibrant tones. Use it’s chilly properties to cool down an otherwise warm room and offer a good counterpoint to a collection in warm colors.  It’s softer cousin, aqua, is used in restful environments.
Shades of teal make for a comfortable room. (via freshome.com)

Shades of teal make for a comfortable room. (via freshome.com)

Classic chairs are given new life with a coat of aqua paint. (via EddieRoss.com)

Classic chairs are given new life with a coat of aqua paint. (via EddieRoss.com)

  • PINK:  another color based in red, pink is a tint (white added) of the bolder color.  Usually considered the epitome of feminine colors, it ranges from the barest softest of tints to the hot pink of fuchsia.
Fun and lively hot pink balanced by lighter pink bedding. (designer Suzanne Kasler)

Fun and lively hot pink balanced by lighter pink bedding. (designer Suzanne Kasler)

Set a Mood

If you are bold enough to break out of the neutral shell, these colors can create a definite mood in a room.  Orange is a commanding color that stimulates appetite and conversation.  Purple in its darkest shade will create a feeling of richness and elegance (think royalty); in its lightest tint of lavender it can be as soothing as the plant itself.  Pink is a soothing color that promotes affability and affection (maybe that’s why it’s considered a feminine color?).  If your mood is lighthearted and whimsical or if you want to embrace a Caribbean/tropical theme, teal is your color.

The Best Place for Bright Color

Orange is seen most often as a ‘modern’ color and used to be dashing and surprising.  It’s intensity makes it great for an entryway or brightly lit room where it can hold it’s own.  Pink is showing up in unlikely places:  hot pink lamp bases, flokati rugs, brightly upholstered chairs.  Whether gentle or bold, a touch of pink will bring your home into the current design culture. 

This eclectic mix proves how a dash of pink can work. Designer Vanessa deVargas (via Houzz.com)

This eclectic mix proves how a dash of pink can work. Designer Vanessa deVargas (via Houzz.com)

 

Frank Roop designed this room with teal becoming the perfect accent color. (via HouseBeautiful.com)

Frank Roop designed this room with teal becoming the perfect accent color. (via HouseBeautiful.com)

 

Go bold! Deftly balanced with the liberal use of black, white and wood tones balances the strong color. (via HouseToHome.co.uk)

Go bold! Deftly balanced with the liberal use of black, white and wood tones the strong color is made livable. (via HouseToHome.co.uk)

 As shown above, teal can be used liberally covering a whole room, or conservatively with a few well chosen accents.  Wouldn’t this color be great outside too?  Pink works well in bedrooms because it’s soothing and flattering (most skin tones look great with a little pink reflected on them).  If your man feels it’s too feminine a color then use it sparingly with gray or chocolate to boost the male tolerance.  To create something unexpected, use fuchsia in a powder room tempered with lots of white - a small room can tolerate the boldness.

Colors to Use With:

  • ORANGE:  the complement of orange is blue and that creates a strong vibrancy in a room.  Orange will work with other citrus colors like shades of yellow or green (lime for the bold).  If your taste is more in the earth tones, use a greyed down orange (rusty) with shades of brown and tan.
A splash of orange throughout this otherwise neutral room is invigorating. Designed by Massucco Warner Miller (via Houzz.com)

A splash of orange throughout this otherwise neutral room is invigorating. Designed by Massucco Warner Miller (via Houzz.com)

 

Citrus colors make an inviting breakfast room (via Coastal Living)

Citrus colors make an inviting breakfast room (via Coastal Living)

 

This vintage bath blends a soft coral with crisp white and an unexpected lime floor. (designed by Margaret Carter via Washington Post)

This vintage bath blends a soft coral with crisp white and an unexpected lime floor. (designed by Margaret Carter via Washington Post)

  • PURPLE:  one of the best companions for purple is green – it works beautifully in nature and will work in your home.  Yellow is the complementary color to purple (opposites on the color wheel) so will be a lively combination – mute it a little and use deep purple with gold for a regal, formal setting.  Combine purple with pinks for a lively twist on a feminine scheme.
Light lavender walls, purple cushions and that vivid pink rug are balanced by lots of white.  Feminine but not sweet. (photo Skonahem.com via CasaSugar.com)

Light lavender walls, purple cushions and that vivid pink rug are balanced by lots of white. Feminine but not sweet. (photo Skonahem.com via CasaSugar.com)

 

Purple and green are a classic combo. (via Beautiful New Homes magazine)

Purple and green are a classic combo. (via Beautiful New Homes magazine)

 

Soft purple paired with equally soft blue makes a relaxing bedroom. (via BHG.com)

Soft purple paired with equally soft blue makes a relaxing bedroom. (via BHG.com)

  • TEAL:  teal is an excellent accent color and will work well with most color schemes.  To use it more boldly, pair it with other strong tropical colors like bright orange or hot pink.  Teal will really sparkle against chocolate brown or charcoal gray.
This unusual color combo by designer Kimberly Ayres pairs teal with a golden orange. (photo via AllTheBest.com)

This unusual color combo by designer Kimberly Ayres pairs teal with a golden orange. (photo via AllTheBest.com)

  • PINK:  a classic and favorite combination with pink is chocolate brown.  Pink is pretty with crisp white (what isn’t?), purples, and grey for a sophisticated look.
This yummy brown wall is the perfect complement to the creamy furnishings and plump pink pillows. (via Southern Accents on Color by Frances MacDougall)

This yummy brown wall is the perfect complement to the creamy furnishings and plump pink pillows. (via Southern Accents on Color by Frances MacDougall)

 

Not my favorite use of pink, the color scheme is developed from the toile pillows and carried through the rest of the furnishings. (via designer Alessandra Branca, Southern Accents on Color by Frances MacDougall)

Not my favorite use of pink, the color scheme is developed from the toile pillows and carried through the rest of the furnishings. (via designer Alessandra Branca, Southern Accents on Color by Frances MacDougall)

 

Bold and beautiful, fuchsia is a fun color. (via digsdigs.com)

Bold and beautiful, fuchsia is a fun color. (via digsdigs.com)

 

Rosy pink paired with dove gray is sophisticated and elegant. (via Traditional Home)

Rosy pink paired with dove gray is sophisticated and elegant. (via Traditional Home)

Feng Shui

  • ORANGE:  In its muted, dulled tones like rust, orange  provides a grounding, stabilizing energy.   In its brightest tones orange becomes closely allied with red and creates an active energy and encourages change.  It’s also associated with enthusiasm and optimism. 
  • PURPLE:  The effect of purple depends on whether it has red or blue undertones.  Blue undertones share similarities with blue and are linked to the water element bringing calmness to a room and encourage self-discovery.  Red undertones (violet) are stronger and reflect passion.  The softer tones of lavender are perfect in creating a quiet, relaxing, reflective space.
  • PINK:  A calming and nuturing color, pink can be great in a bedroom where you want serenity.  It has healing qualities so is good to use with children’s spaces and it also helps release anger.

Color Series Preview

Next Monday check back because I’ll be sharing lots of information about black, white and gray.  The following week is all about neutrals and then I’ll be wrapping up this series with some general information about how to develop a color scheme successfully.  To make sure you don’t miss a word, a sentence, a paragraph, we hope you’ll subscribe (at the top of the page).1-terrie

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We’re big “do it yourself” folks in our household so it surprised me the other day when someone said “I’ve been thinking of repainting my bedroom but I need to find a painter.”  Find a painter?  I don’t have to look any further than under our roof – we’ve never hired a professional painter.

If you’ve never painted, don’t be afraid to give it a try.  It takes time but it’s not hard (unless you have really high ceilings that require scaffolding or heavily damaged walls that require extensive repair during prep).  There are three “P”s to a paint project:  Plan, Prep and Paint.

PLAN

First decide what wall(s) you want to paint (remember, the ceiling is a 5th wall) and select the color direction.  Read Terrie’s series of posts on Color for Home Decor Explained to help understand the color family you’ve selected and how to narrow it down to a specific color.

dots, yellow

In addition to the color you need to select a paint finish.  The finish you choose for your paint depends on the final look and wearability you want.  Your choices include:

Flat - Provides a matte appearance that softens a room,  helps hide imperfections and makes walls look smooth. This finish easily cleans with a damp sponge and is suitable for adult bedrooms, dining rooms, living rooms and ceilings.

Satin - Provides a slight gloss finish and has the same benefits of a flat finish but with additional cleanability. It is great for high-traffic areas including hallways, wood work, kids’ bedrooms and family rooms.

Semi-Gloss - Provides a lustrous and extremely durable finish.  Use it in areas you need to clean often such as kitchens, bathrooms, laundry rooms, trim and doors.

Gloss – Provides a very hard, shiny and cleanable finish for trim, cabinets, doors, and furniture.

The amount of paint needed depends on the size of the space you’re painting.  The easiest way to purchase the correct amount is to take your room measurements to the paint store when you go for color samples.  Paint professionals use a formula to quickly determine how many gallons you’ll need for good coverage.

PREP

Gather the tools you’ll need for painting. Large areas are most easily painted with a roller, paint pan and, perhaps, a roller extension for higher walls and ceilings.   A brush works to paint small areas.  You’ll need an angled brush to easily ”cut in” close to molding around the floor, door, window or ceiling.  Use drop cloths to protect your floors and furnishings.  Depending on your room, you may need a step stool or a ladder.  Painter’s tape protects areas to which you need to paint closely and rags help erase small spatters or drips (get to them right away and they clean up easily). You can protect door knobs by taping a plastic sandwich bag over the handle.

 

Painter's tape protects the top of the molding from paint and helps create a straignt line.

Painter's tape protects the top of the molding from paint and helps create a straignt line.

Make sure your surfaces are clean and in good repair.  Firmly and evenly press painter’s tape to areas where you want a straight line (be sure to rub the edge of the tape down so paint doesn’t seep underneath) or over areas you want to protect.  Use a screw driver to remove electrical switch and outlet covers as it’s easier to paint under them and then replace them than it is to cut in perfectly (tip: place the small screws back in the holes so they don’t get lost while you’re painting – you’ll know right where to find them when it’s time to replace the covers).

PAINT

Paint sample swatches first!  Paint color that looks good on a paint stick or a magazine picture may not look good in your home.  Paint color changes with the light throughout the day and also in context to the color of your furniture and accessories.  Before you buy paint for the room, buy a couple sample pots to paint swatches – good size swatches – and then watch how the color changes during the day.  The same paint looks different on a wall washed with northern light than it does on a wall with bright southern exposure.  Natural light affects paint differently than incandescent light does so be sure to examine the swatches during the day and at night when your lights are on.

My husband paints a second big sample swatch so we can make the best color selection.

My husband paints a second big sample swatch so we can make the best color selection.

 

A sample swatch next to a cabinet and a window helps check color on another wall.

A sample swatch next to a cabinet and a window helps check color on another wall.

 

If you are painting a wall that is a bold or dark color you should prime the wall first so the color doesn’t bleed through your lighter color paint.  You should also use primer on drywall that has never been painted.  If you’re applying a dark or bold color (like red) you should prime with a colored primer so you won’t have to paint as many layers to get a deep, even coat – and primer is cheaper than paint.  With colored primer a red wall should take only the usual two coats – without primer it might take up to five coats of paint to get a smooth, even, deep finish.

This YouTube video gives a quick overview of the painting process.  The only thing I hope you will ignore is the small size of the sample swatch they paint in the video.  It is too little to give you a good look at how the color will look in your room – paint a bigger swatch!

 

GIVE IT A TRY

If you’ve never painted but want to give it a try, you may want to start with an accent wall.  An accent wall is often the first wall you see when you walk into the room or it may be a wall with a special feature you’d like to highlight with a color change.  Painting a single accent wall provides an easy start and simple success for your first time painting.

So how about you – do you paint or hire it out?  What tips would you give a first time painter?  Share your successes and your tips and tribulations with us.  To send us photos with your message attach them to an email addressed to solutions@yourdecoratinghotline.com or simply comment below to leave a message, tip or painting tale.

 

 

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I’ve been in a new home for just a matter of months now and have pretty much finished playing “musical furniture” – the “where do I put it?” game where you wander from room to room and wonder where to hang the mirror, or how to squeeze in a chair that no longer works in the room where it used to look great, or where you can showcase a favorite vase.

This Spot Needs Something!

With my furniture settled in the new house, I still found myself with a blank bit of wall that cried out for something.   Located in the dining room and adjacent and visible to the living room, the space certainly didn’t work well for a table or a chair, I was fresh out of framed art, my dining hutch didn’t fit well on that wall (and it already looked good where it was placed), and a mirror wasn’t ideal as it just reflected part of another wall and and and edge of kitchen cabinets (tip: when hanging a mirror always consider what it’s reflecting).  And, with all the expenses of a new home and a move, a new piece of furniture wasn’t in the plans.

Make Something Old New Again

Time to reinvent, refurbish, and reuse a piece of furniture a friend made for us over 30 years ago.  The oak and glass etagere shown below was, until a couple of days ago, holding miscellaneous items and small boxes in a corner of the garage.  At our last home it was relegated to the laundry room where it held a big container of liquid laundry detergent, cleaning supplies, a box of batteries and a bin of cleaning cloths.  In better years the etagere served us well in a family room, an office , a bedroom and several other spots. 

Before: medium oak etagere.

Before: medium oak etagere is angular and plain.

 

Before: close-up of corner shows straight angles and light color.

Before: close-up of corner shows straight angles and light color.

 

The old piece had good “bones.”  It was a suitable height and width for the wall, made of quality materials and still sturdy.  The only problem was it just didn’t quite go with the surrounding darker wood (hardwood floor, dining table, ceiling beams) and it was rather straight-lined and modern for the older, more organic and almost Tuscan look of the house.  

The Process

My solution?  Clean the etagere (laundry detergent drips had soaked into the wood in one spot), prep it with a light sanding, use a rag to apply two coats of Minwax stain in Red Mahogany 225 color, and decorate it by adding iron brackets Home Depot sells as shelf supports.  The brackets soften the lines of the angular piece and also tie in with the curving iron chandelier hanging over the table, just a few feet from the etagere’s new home. 

The Result

With the revamped etagere in place on the wall, I visually tied it to the rest of the room by shopping my kitchen.  I filled a basket tray with colorful cloth napkins, stacked Italian style pottery dishes in a metal holder, and added vinegar bottles filled with colorful vegetables.   A few other touches to the shelves and the wall now appears welcoming instead of blank. 

After:  Red Mahogany stain covers the medium oak and iron brackets decorate the top and bottom corners.

After: Red Mahogany stain covers the medium oak and iron brackets decorate the top and bottom corners.

 

After:  close-up of corner shows red mahagany color and iron bracket that softens the corner.

After: close-up of corner shows red mahogany color and iron bracket that softens the corner.

 

After:  Two iron brackets soften corners and tie to other iron elements in the room.

After: Two iron brackets soften corners and tie to other iron elements in the room, including a chandelier.

 

After:  A second set of iron brackets adorn the bottom corners of the etagere.

After: A second set of iron brackets adorn the etagere's bottom corners.

 

The cost?  Much cheaper than a new piece of furniture!  A little bit of time, a can of stain and 4 shelf brackets  – certainly big savings compared to buying something.  Will the piece become a family heirloom?  Probably not – but hey, it’s already been around about 30 years now, so who knows?

What About You?

Take a look around and you might find you’ve got the perfect piece to reinvent, refurbish and reuse!  So share your inspiration.  Let us see your before and after  photos or how you put something to use in a new way.  As always, we’re anxious to hear from you.

I’m sharing this post on DIY Day on A Soft Place to Land – drop by to check out hundreds of great ideas.

 

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Today we’re talking about stainless steel appliances.  In our previous “Thumbs Up / Thumbs Down – Painted Cabinets” post Terrie stated she disliked stainless appliances.  I like them.  Read on and see which side of the fence you stand on – then chime in with a comment and share your thoughts.

Cindy Gives Stainless Appliances a Thumbs Up

My current kitchen appliances are stainless steel and in my two prior houses they were also stainless.  The fourth house had white appliances.  All of them were good appliances and they did their jobs – but I’ve stuck with the stainless instead of the white and would happily do so again.

Stainless steel isn’t better than other appliance finishes.  An appliance doesn’t work better just because it’s stainless.  Stainless is simply a finish style – an option – a choice – and a perception.  Stainless is just something I like.

I think stainless is the new white.  A stainless steel  finish goes with most any cabinet color, whether painted or stained.   It is also easy to use with most any countertop and flooring surface.  Stainless looks very much at home in a traditional style kitchen as well as in a very modern kitchen.  Face it, stainless is a great neutral!

Tainless stove, microwave and dishwasher at home in a country kitchen.  Photo from bhg.com.

Stainless stove, microwave and dishwasher at home in a country kitchen. Photo from bhg.com.

 

Stainless refrigerator, hood, stove and sink in a contemporary kitchen.  Photo form bhg.com.

Stainless refrigerator, dishwasher, sink, hood, and stove in a contemporary kitchen. Photo from bhg.com.

Stainless is also durable and easy to keep clean – that’s why restaurants and other commercial ventures use it.  It’s a great workhorse in the kitchen.

Since stainless goes with most anything and the public finds it so appealing, manufacturers have moved beyond the major appliances like the stove, hood, refrigerator, warming drawer and kitchen sink.  Stainless is now a mainstay option for microwaves, blenders, toasters, toaster ovens, tea kettles, crock pots, bread machines, can openers, salt and pepper shakers and even spoon rests! 

The popularity of stainless helped drop prices.  Years ago only high end, more professional appliances used stainless.  Now all major appliance manufacturers offer a stainless option.  This makes stainless accessible and it also means you don’t have to use the same manufacturer to ensure your appliance colors match.  My kitchen contains stainless Sharp, DCS, Maytag and Fisher&Paykel appliances and they all play nice together.  Not true with colored appliances finishes which sometimes vary slightly between manufacturers and whose color changes over time (some whites yellow faster and more than others).

In addition to blending with most anything, stainless steel projects a strong, durable, professional image.  Hey, even if you can’t cook, your kitchen looks like you can!  My husband and I both cook and  we both enjoy the simple elegance and easy clean stainless surface when we’re working in the kitchen.  Plus, our kitchen opens to the living and dining rooms and we like the way the stainless adds sparkle to the open area and is neutral enough to blend into the living space without being distracting.

Stainless steel looks good and works hard while providing a timeless and elegant look to my home.  I’ve used it in three kitchens and would welcome it again.

Terrie Gives Stainless Appliances a Thumb Down

When Cindy suggested this topic, my response was “Sure, but I guess I’ll have to come up with something other than ‘I just don’t like it’.”  I promptly pulled out my kitchen magazines and photographs to look for examples of good looking kitchens with something other than stainless appliances.  You know what?  In all my searching, I found surprisingly few ‘designer’ kitchens that didn’t have stainless appliances.  And this includes my OLD magazines back 6-8 years ago!

Photo via 50 Dream Kitchens magazine '04.

Photo via 50 Dream Kitchens magazine '04.

As Cindy mentioned above, in our painted cabinet post a couple weeks ago I came down against painted cabinets.  I wish I’d found this picture then because this kitchen has just about everything I don’t care for in a kitchen:  painted cabinets, an island that’s a different finish than the rest of the kitchen, AND stainless appliances (peeking at the edges of the photo). One of my issues with stainless is that their very modernity doesn’t ‘match’ all kitchen design styles.  Unlike Cindy I don’t think the stainless finish works with all styles.  Somehow the industrial, sleek look of stainless mixed with country doesn’t work for me.

This kitchen feels more seamless in it's design by blending the appliances with the cabinet faces. (via 50 Dream Kitchens)

This kitchen feels more seamless in it's design by blending the appliances with the cabinet faces. (via 50 Dream Kitchens)

 

Rhodes Architecture + Light modern kitchenModern kitchen design by Seattle architect Rhodes Architecture +Light via Houzz.com

A more appropriate kitchen for stainless appliances, though if it were mine I’d prefer black with the fridge clad in matching cabinet fronts.

An old world kitchen like this one looks cohesive and elegant with all the appliance fronts matching the cabinets. (via my magazine archives)

An old world kitchen like this one looks cohesive and elegant with all the appliance fronts matching the cabinets. (via my magazine archives)

 

Another kitchen view combining black appliances with matching cabinet refrigerator doors. (via Plato Woodwork magazine ad)

Another kitchen view combining black appliances with matching cabinet refrigerator doors. (via Plato Woodwork magazine ad)

Most major appliance lines offer the ability to clad the appliance fronts with matching cabinet doors though it is definitely a more custom option therefore more pricey.  If the budget can swing it, I definitely recommend that route.  If not, white always looks clean and bright and black looks sharp and offers a more high contrast look to most cabinetry.

I agree with Cindy that the cost of stainless has decreased, but they’re still the highest priced finish on the market….sometimes only by a couple hundred dollars but often more than that.  As for upkeep, my feeling is that all finishes are about the same with the slight difference that stainless seems to show every fingerprint.  I definitely don’t like seeing  grubby fingerprints all over the door nor do I want to wipe it down every day or two to keep it looking nice.  There is a newer ‘fingerprint resistant’ stainless finish but it’s not a true stainless.  It has a dull grey look that is even more unappealing than stainless.

Jenn Aire has developed a new finish called oil rubbed bronze which looks like it has possibilites.  It’s warmer than the stainless but still has a little of the reflective qualities.  Though I’ve only seen pictures, I think that could become a popular option.

Jenn-Aire oil rubbed bronze appliances. (from a magazine ad)

Jenn-Aire oil rubbed bronze appliances. (from a magazine ad)

Wrapping this up, I think Cindy’s comment,  ”Stainless isn’t better than other appliance finishes. It’s an option.” is exactly right in this case.  It’s trendy, it’s everywhere and available on just about anything, it’s durable.  On the flip side, it does show fingerprints more readily than other finishes, it is a little more expensive and it looks very modern (which to me means it doesn’t work perfectly in every kitchen style).  This topic more than the others we’ve tackled seems to be about perception and just…. do you like the look?  I’m still not sold….think I’ll keep my white appliances. 

What Do You Think?

So, what are you using for your appliances?  Are they stainless?  White?  Black?  Cabinet clad or something else?  Is stainless steel something you like or dislike?  If you’ve got a kitchen – you’ve got appliances – so you’re more than qualified to share a comment on this topic.  Remember, there’s no right or wrong answer – just personal preferences when it comes to appliance finishes.   Tell us yours.  Leave a comment – we’d love to hear from you.  We know you’re out there…………1-tp&cs

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1-color dotsA reader recently commented on the post about the color blue.  She’s struggling with making her wall color work with furnishings so wanted a little advice. 

 

A Reader’s Color Dilemma

“I enjoy your website! I recently painted my 11×14 living room in Samovar (SW) silvery gray paint. It looks kind of blue in my room with red oak floors with light golden stain. I have an upright brown cherry finish piano in there and cherry end tables. It is a southern exposure with a big picture window and another east facing window.  Someone from the paint store came to my home and suggested the paint color that I thought was light blue.  With my Alabaster white trim it looks okay though not the blue I anticipated. I like blues, not gray.

In looking for furniture or slipcovers, nothing looks good to me but brown. Paint person thinks chocolate brown on 89″ couch and small Queen Anne chair would be fine.  Seems like it may be too stark in contrast. I brought home samples from a furniture store of a cocoa or mocha color and it looked kind of drab. Would off-white slipcovered or upholstery work with brown or blue accents or should I look for varying shades of blue for upholstery and fabric? I don’t like orange :) but could see soft gold used somewhere.  I like blue greens, but don’t know if any would work with this gray color.  Thanks for reading my rant.”  Diane

Sherwin Williams Samovar Silver #6233 (the middle gray color).

Sherwin Williams Samovar Silver #6233 (the middle gray color).

Another reader wrote a quickie question in the same vein.  Janet wrote:  “Are there shades of gray that go with dark brown furniture, stains and woods?”

Working With Gray and Brown

I’ll be including gray in more depth in an upcoming Exploring Color post covering black/white/gray neutrals.  But for now and to answer these ladies’ question, yes there are many grays that will work with brown.  Although I scanned in the Sherwin Williams color strip, it will likely appear in all shades of blue gray depending on your monitor settings.  In actuality it’s a fairly medium gray with very little blue so the appearance of blue that Diane is getting from it is likely because of the contrast against the warm wood flooring and furnishings. 

This room is predominantly gray but you can see that the addition of a dark brown chair & various wood tones blends well with the silvery tones. (via bhg.com)

This room is predominantly gray but you can see that the addition of a dark brown chair & various wood tones blends well with the silvery tones. (via bhg.com)

Ladies, as with any color, gray will have undertones, either warming the gray or blue undertones which will cool it down.  If your wood tones, stains or furnishings are a brown like espresso or walnut, almost any silvery gray will work.  If your woods and furnishings are in the mahogany or cherry color range, choose a gray with warm undertones so everything will blend better.  You’ll get maximum impact and drama by choosing high contrast options (lightest gray with darkest browns).  If you want something a little calmer, choose tones closer in intensity.  Some pretty silvery grays from Sherwin Williams are:  #7653 Silverpointe (slight green undertone); #7656 Rhinestone (barely there gray); or #7651 On the Rocks for a good mid-tone.

A medium gray works with the walnut tones of this chest. (via House & Home, Canadian)

A medium gray works with the walnut tones of this chest. (via House & Home, Canadian)

Other Options to go With Gray

Diane, I agree with the paint person that dark brown on your furniture would look “fine”, but you can do lots better than “fine”.  We want excellent, exciting, dazzling!  So unless you really want brown, let’s explore other options.  The gray that was selected for your walls is a very neutral gray without strong undertones either way.  Consequently that leaves you with lots of options.  Think of the gray as a neutral – no different than tan or beige – it’s a medium tone but will work with many colors.  Since you’re predisposed to blues, let’s look at a few combinations using gray and blue. 

Blues that will work with gray. (graphic YDH)
Blues that will work with gray. (graphic YDH)

This graphic helps illustrate that with a medium gray wall (this is pretty close to the SW color according to my screen), you can brighten the room with any number of blues.  The white strip represents your trim and the brown is a medium w/ red undertone similar to a cherry.  A crisp navy would be a great alternative to brown and would ground the room.  Medium blues (the top one has more green in it) will work as a calmer alternative (less contrast) and the wavy blue/gray/green square shows that even greens can work in this palette.

This baby blue works in this silvery room. (via bhg.com)

This baby blue works in this silvery room. (via bhg.com)

Your other question about using slipcovers in white is easy to answer.  White always looks great and will brighten the gray but don’t feel like you have to use white (or brown) because nothing else works with the color.  Yellow and gray is a fabulous combination and your idea of soft golds would warm up the gray and yet be a very current color scheme.  I might suggest that your sofa or a large piece of furniture is a deep rich gold and then you could spice it up by adding blue with lighter yellows in a pattern for pillows or draperies.

The Key to Success

Diane, the key for you is going to be finding the right print fabric that combines colors you like.  Avoid ‘muddy’ blues that have too much grey without a contrasting color in the pattern and choose something with some clearer tones to enliven your room and avoid the “dull-droms”.  It doesn’t necessarily have to have silver or gray in it, but the print should have 2-4 colors in it so that you can pull from it for your upholstery colors.  Go to a fabric store like JoAnn’s or Calico Corners and borrow/check-out a few larger fabric samples to try out.  Lay them on the floor or drape over an ottoman since that’s mostly how they’ll be viewed – on the horizontal plane – live with it for a couple days and you’ll be amazed at the color options that don’t include brown.

Do any of you have suggestions for Diane or Janet?  Have you embraced the new neutral and have gray in your home?  What colors do you pair it with?  We’d love to hear from you.1-terrie

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